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Some might not agree with me on this, but I have to say that, right now, Varanese is arguably the hottest spot on the local restaurant scene. Proof of that was evident last night during its Grgich Hills Estate Biodynamic Wine Dinner. Filled to the gills, the place was abuzz with good chatter among good peeps who were interested in knowing more about the evening's featured wines. (Last night's event sold out two weeks ago, so they're repeating it tonight—but that's also sold out. Told you the place is hot.)
No, this wasn't just another wine dinner. (Frankly, to all who think those events sound boring or passé, every one I've been to around town in the past few years has been extraordinary. Visit one if you haven't.) This was centered on wine made by a Napa Valley producer who uses zero chemical inputs in its winemaking.
A biodynamic winery is technically a farm. There, animals are raised to produce the fertilizer that, combined with nutrition and protection given by natural cover crops, feeds and protects the vines. Fewer than 30 biodynamic wineries exist in the U.S., and of course, there are many more in Europe.
I'll be honest, by taste alone, I can't tell a biodynamic wine from one that isn't. So there was no proof on my palate that this is beneficial to the juice in the glass—but consider the source. No doubt, the wines were terrific (the Grgich Zinfandel was my fave), but what's really important about biodynamic farming is its real-live sustainability. David Bos, vineyard manager for Grgich, said chemically fertilized vineyards will die out every 15-20 years because the land becomes exhausted by the artificial inputs. The vines have to be ripped out and the land rested before vines are replanted. A biodynamic winery, on the other hand, can last indefinitely, the way God made it to run.
And about the food? A cut of Foxhollow Farms' grass-fed beef was on the menu, which is significant since it is the area's only biodynamic farm. And Varanese fans can only hope chef John Varanese will revisit the slow-braise lamb and papardelle pasta with goat cheese and wild mushrooms, the evening's home run on a menu full of hits. Another show stopper was the cracked black pepper ice cream. Whoda thunk it, right? Trust me, it was terrific.
A couple of slices of news …
Streep sense wins awards: Meryl Streep proved again what a rare talent she is by winning a Golden Globe best actress award for her portrayal of Julia Child in the summertime hit, "Julie & Julia." (Dudes, if you haven't seen it, trust me, it's not a chick flick. It's a terrific movie.) This morning, Eater.com published a list of food-centered movies that also have won Golden Globes. It's an interesting list, though I must say, "Sideways" was lost on me.
The food of science: Hardcore chef fans know of Ferran Adria, owner of Spain's most celebrated restaurant, El Bulli. Adria and other kitchen geniuses are behind an effort to build a molecular gastronomy school in San Sebastian, Spain. This isn't your knife-roll and uniform kind of culinary academy, this is food preparation and presentation meets Modern Art who then bears offspring with Modern Science. Crazy stuff. Have a look at the proposed building.
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Steve Coomes